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Coffee cupping: the key to quality
Learn the technique used by coffee professionals to evaluate and ensure an excellent cup of coffee.

by Ted Lingle

The phenomenal growth of the specialty coffee industry over the last decade should signal clearly to the foodservice industry that coffee is not to be taken for granted anymore. In fact, coffee is usually the first or last culinary product that a foodservice customer consumes and so generates a powerful impression about the general quality of the establishment.

Cupping is the six-step process in which coffee professionals evaluate the fragrance, aroma, taste, nose, aftertaste and body of a sample of coffee.

A growing number of consumers are appreciating, and therefore demanding, finer coffee, freshly roasted and properly brewed. This requires foodservice operators to not only supply a better quality of coffee, but to be knowledgeable about the flavor and quality of coffee. In addition to tasting the food components of their menu for quality control purposes, operators need to start tasting coffee like a professional.

Coffee cupping is the technique used by coffee professionals to evaluate coffee's flavor and quality. Try it, and test your own coffee by the standards from which a flourishing industry depends. Otherwise, your customers may leave and have their coffee and desserts at the coffeehouse down the street.

Cupping is key to ensure flavor and quality
The discovery of specialty coffee begins at the cupping table. It is a process in which your nose and your tongue guide you toward finding the ultimate sensory pleasures that mother nature captures in a few, rare beans. It is a process for which most people are well-equipped but in which few are adequately trained.

Coffee cupping is a method used to systematically evaluate the aroma, taste, and body of a sample of coffee beans. The method consists of a prescribed manner of brewing and a series of steps that lead to a complete sensory evaluation by the coffee cupper's olfaction (smell), gustation (taste) and mouth-feel (touch) sensations. The cuppers are looking for positive flavor characteristics in the taste and aroma properties of the coffee sample, and they are also looking for negative attributes, which would indicate poor preparation of the coffee beans during harvesting or processing.

There are six different areas in which the sensory quality of the coffee sample can be evaluated. To be considered a "specialty coffee," at least one of these facets should be distinctive.

1. Fragrance
The first step in the cupping sequence is to evaluate the fragrance released from the freshly ground beans. Grind a 7.25 gram sample, place it in a sampling cup, then vigorously sniff over the top of the cup as the gases leave the newly ruptured bean cells. This set of gases comes from the enzymatic components of the coffee beans that are created while the beans are maturing on the trees. These scents will be reminiscent of flowery, fruity, or herbal sensations.The intensity of the fragrance reveals the freshness of the sample.

2. Aroma
The second step involves examining the aroma of the coffee brew. First pour 150 milliliters (5 fl. oz.) of fresh, near-boiling water over the newly ground coffee beans, and allow the coffee grounds to steep for approximately three minutes. The coffee particles will form a crust, or cap, on the surface of the brew. As this cap is broken by gentle stirring, the gases released are vigorously sucked up into the nasal cavity by a long, deep sniffing action. This set of gases portrays the full range and complexity of the aromatic character of the sample. These gases include: (1) heavier components from the enzymatic compounds in the beans that tend to be herby in character; (2) a large number of components from the sugar-browning compounds in the beans, which will range from nutty to caramelly to chocolatey; and (3) a few of the lighter components from the dry distillation compounds in the beans that will give turpeny or spicy sensations. Generally speaking, the range and complexity of the aromas correspond to the type of coffee being cupped. Cupping experience leads to categorizing each unique pattern in your "odor memory" as a means of distinguishing one type of coffee from another. Excellent cuppers tend to have a keen sense of smell and a highly developed odor memory.

3. Taste
Scrutinizing the taste of the freshly brewed coffee is the third step in cupping. Using a special cupping spoon, (usually a rounded soup spoon that has been silver-plated to rapidly dissipate heat) raise a small portion of the coffee brew just in front of the mouth and forcefully "slurp" the sample. Briskly aspirating the fluid in this manner spreads it evenly over the entire surface of your tongue. This allows all of the nerve endings on your tongue to simultaneously respond to the sweet, sour, bitter, or salt stimulation from the fluid. The simultaneous response creates the opportunity to assess the balance in the "liquoring" of the brew. In specialty coffee, the balance will be pleasing to your taste and tend to be in the sweet to sweet/sour range, registering a taste sensation that ranges from mellow to acidy to winey. Temperature affects how the stimulus is perceived. For example, because temperature decreases the perception of the sweetness of sugars, acidy coffees tend to first give a tingling sensation on the tip of the tongue rather than a sweet one. Once the coffee brew cools, repeat the tasting. When cool, good quality coffees will show a pronounced sweetness in the cup.

4. Nose
The fourth step is done simultaneously with the third. The aspiration of the coffee brew across the surface of the tongue also "aerates" it, resulting in a portion of the organic flavoring compounds present in the liquid to release as vapors. These vapors travel up the back of the naval cavity until they reach the nasal membrane, creating an aromatic stimulation. This simultaneous assessment of the taste and nose (vapors) of the brew give it its unique flavor. More than the taste, the nose tends to reflect the nature of the compounds created by the roasting process. Lightly roasted coffee beans will tend to have a fruity or herby character. Moderately roasted beans will exhibit a full range of the flavor compounds created by the sugar-browning reactions of the roasting process, which range from nutty to caramelly to chocolatey. Darkly roasted beans will show the pungent characteristics of dry distillation compounds, turpeny to spicy to carbony, that will be reminiscent of many different types of spices or wood (cellulose) fiber products which have been burned or cured (treated with heat).

5. Aftertaste
The fifth step is sifting out the "finish" of the coffee brew. It is done by swallowing a small portion of the brew, and after it has been held in the mouth for a few seconds, then rapidly pumping the larynx to force up into the nasal cavity the vapors lingering in the back of the palate. The flavor compounds found in the aftertaste may have a sweet characteristic reminiscent of chocolatey sensation or any of the heavier vapors from the sugar-browning by-products. They may resemble sensations that are turpeny in character due to a resinous or medicinal origin. They may remind you of a warming or pungent spicy sensation, such as nutmeg, pepper, clove or thyme. They may seem carbony, reminiscent of smoky or ashy sensation stemming from the partial combustion of the bean fibers in darkly roasted coffee beans. Or they may exhibit any combination of these characteristics.

6. Body
The cupping method concludes by probing the fluid to determine its mouthfeel. Gently slide your tongue across the roof of your mouth, eliciting a tactile sensation. The oiliness, or slipperiness, of the sensation measures the fat content of the brew, while the sensation's thickness, or viscosity, measures the fiber and other undissolved components of the brew. Combined, these two sensations constitute the brew's body.

Tips and tools for tasting
When learning to cup coffee, it can be very useful to take notes on a particular aspect of a coffee's flavor. Associating different aspects of a particular flavor with a specific word helps imprint the sensation in your brain's flavor memory. A guideline for associating words with specific coffee flavors has been incorporated into the "Coffee Taster's Flavor Wheel," available through Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA). Another tool for coffee and culinary professionals who desire to learn the subtleties of tasting is Le Nez du Cafˇ ("The Nose of Coffee"), a sensory training system also available through SCAA. All of us have the skills to become excellent cuppers. It is not difficult, but it does take practice. And the pleasures you will find at the cupping table will expand both your palate and your mind.

Annual Flavored Syrup Review

by Shea Sturdivant

Flavored syrups are not new, although new flavors and applications are developed continually. Here, top flavored syrup manufacturers share their best-selling flavor and new uses to help stimulate your sales.

What have been your top selling flavors this year and to what do you attribute their success?
Joe Fee, treasurer and sales manager of Fee Brothers' notes that most flavors appropriate for coffee haven't made the top 10 list because of Fee Brothers' history in the cocktail mix business.

"Our top six selling flavors aimed at coffee shops have experienced a nearly 21% growth in volume so far this year. We expect these to continue to climb the ranks as more establishments discover the versatility of syrups in everyday menu items," Fee continues.

As to how trends affect the sales of flavored syrups, Entner-Stuart Premium Syrups' Daniel Bogan, VP of marketing and sales, explains: "Undoubtedly, some flavor trends within the specialty coffee industry are influenced by flavor trends in the food and beverage industry at large."

Oscar's Syrups' Colleen Ransom sees "a definite growth in the use of syrups in cold drinks, fruit smoothies, and blender drinks. Using flavored syrups gives the customer several flavor choices or blends of flavors for single serving drinks."

Torani Italian Syrups' French Vanilla and Sugar-Free Vanilla, both introduced in the past year — quickly nudged their way into the 10 top sellers' list.

"Sugar-Free syrups are Torani's fastest growing category," says Virginia Watkins, marketing associate. "Customers like the authentic flavor and don't feel they're being indulgent since they contain no calories or fat."

As for the vanilla phenomenon, says Watkins, "we recommend it for mochas, Italian sodas, lattes, teas, smoothies, granitas, and steamers. Few other flavors have so much range and consumer appeal."

Have you seen growth in the use of flavored syrups in cold beverages?
Tracy Ging, assistant marketing manager of Da Vinci Gourmet, thinks that the use of flavored syrups in cold beverages is certainly a growing trend.

"Retailers use cold beverages in order to appeal to different target markets, to encourage beverage consumption at various times throughout the day, and to offset seasonal breaks in hot beverage consumption," she says. "Granitas, smoothies, and Italian sodas continue to be popular choices, but there is always room for new creations. A variety of flavors add to the popularity of cold beverages as well."

Stacey Cline of Monin, Inc., has seen increased usage of flavored syrups in lemonade and in signature drinks. She attributes this growth to the fact that operators want to be able to offer an exclusive, signature beverage.

Jean Marc Gallerie of Routin America thinks that cold coffee consumption will grow.

"I believe the main reason for this is that it will attract more younger consumers," Gallerie says. "Look at how iced tea has now become one of the most popular and favorite drinks served in any establishment."

Chris Spier of Stearns and Lehman notes that there has been impressive growth in the use of syrups in the cold beverage market.

"With the growing popularity of fruit smoothies, iced coffee beverages, and granitas — not to mention the demand for flavored teas, infused teas, juices, sweet teas, and chai beverages — the use of flavored syrups for cold and frozen beverages will continue to grow as these drinks find their way into the global marketplace," says Spier.

"Syrups are now used in a variety of applications, including teas, iced beverages, culinary creations and true signature beverages," says Kate LaPoint, Stirling Gourmet Flavors' marketing manager. "In addition, they're found more in high-end restaurants — in kitchens rather than just back-bars."

"As the originator of the Italian soda, Torani has a lot to say about flavored syrups in cold applications," says Torani's Watkins. "Restaurant chains like Red Robin use Torani on their beverage menus, offering alcoholic and 'mocktail' versions. These drinks provide big ticket add-on, and can make a restaurant a destination spot."

If you had to pick one thing that compelled consumers to try flavored syrups for the first time, what would it be?
Avery Stirratt of National Fruit Flavors points out that a display of syrups is always important, but he also believes in the 'Beverage of the Day' approach, which features one special item utilizing flavored syrups.

Oscar's Colleen Ransom recommends daily, weekly, and monthly specials, recipe counter cards with pictures, or holiday and theme drinks.

Kate LaPoint of Stirling thinks sampling is the way to entice customers into requesting flavored syrups.

"Let the customer taste for themselves," she says. "Host a seasonal event where you 'cup' beverages or sample food items made with syrup."

In addition La Point says "another form of suggestive selling includes a detailed description of what flavored beverages taste like (e.g., Our Creamy Orange Italian Soda makes you feel as happy as when you were a kid on a hot summer day!). Photos work great, especially if they're well done."

Shea Sturdivant is a past officer of the Specialty Coffee Assn. of America, a partner in Coffee Associates, a consulting firm, and chairperson of the Business Administration Dept. of Bauder College in Georgia.

Reprinted with permission from the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal, 130 W. 42nd St., Ste. 1050, New York, N Y 10036, Tel: (212) 391-2060; Fax: (212) 827-0945; www.teaandcoffee.net.

 

1999'2 top-selling flavored syrups
Da Vinci Gourmet Ltd.
Almond
Amaretto
Caramel
French Vanilla Hazelnut
Irish Cream Raspberry
Strawberry
Vanilla Sugar-Free
Vanilla
Entner-Stuart Syrups Vanilla
Irish Cream
Caramel
Raspberry
Hazelnut
Strawberry
Almond Cherry
Cafe Mocha Trio
Fee Brothers
Strawberry
Coffee
Banana
Cherry
Peach
Creme de Cocoa
Golden Passion Fruit Raspberry
Pi–a Colada
Melon
Oscar's Syrups
Vanilla
Hazelnut
Caramel
Irish Cream
Amaretto
Raspberry
Mocha
Strawberry
B-52
Routin America, Inc.
Vanilla
Hazelnut
Chocolate
Irish Cream
Cinnamon
Macadamia Nut
Caramel
Almond
Raspberry
Strawberry
Stirling Gourmet Flavors
California Almond
German Chocolate
Creme Caramel
Irish Cream
Italian Amaretto
French Vanilla
Jamaican Rum
Georgia Peach
English Red Raspberry
Stearns & Lehman Inc.
Vanilla
Hazelnut Caramel
Irish Creme
Raspberry

Torani Italian Syrups
Vanilla
Cherry
Hazelnut
Irish Cream
Caramel
Raspberry
Orgeat (Almond)
French Vanilla
Strawberry
Sugar-Free Vanilla