FALL 2010
Flavors from the HALFSHELL
by robin schemppBivalves add ocean-fresh flavor and an eco-friendly element to the menu in many interpretations
The BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico brought renewed attention to the delicate condition of our ocean ecosystem and the importance of protecting marine food sources through good stewardship and sustainable business practices. The message resonates with chefs who serve seafood and are working toward moving their menus in a more sustainable direction.
One solution in the quest for eco-friendly seafood is to take a closer look at bivalves, a category of mollusks that includes oysters, clams, mussels and scallops.
By and large, bivalves are sustainably raised or harvested. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, a respected and trusted guide to choosing eco-friendly seafood options, rates all farmed and wild clams, mussels, oysters and scallops either a “Best Choice” or “Good Alternative,” making this category of mollusks a good selection for operations looking to become more eco-friendly.
Though “farm-raised” seafood often has negative connotations, most North American bivalve farming actually has a restorative effect on the environment while yielding consistently high-quality and safe products. And fisheries management plans in place for wild-harvested bivalves — Atlantic surf clams are one of the first species to have such a plan — keep the populations healthy and at a sustainable rate of harvest.
Seasons and terroir play big roles in the quality and flavor of bivalves’ meat. The seasonal cycles find the animals spawning in the summer months, rejuvenating in the fall and peaking in plumpness as the waters cool and feeding begins in preparation for winter’s dormancy. Meanwhile, salinity levels, water temperature and available feed vary from season to season and region to region, making each species of clam, oyster, mussel or scallop — and even members of the same species — separate and distinct.
The seasonal, regional and species characteristics of each bivalve may determine the best culinary application for your menu; following are ideas for innovation within the seven favorite preparation and cooking techniques.